Q:  Application of our acrylic polymer based products: BLAK, SATN, GLOZ, DASH, and SPA. 

A: The direction on bottle or instruction card are all you will need.

 Make sure the surface is completely free of any previously used 'protectants'...that greasy stuff! New or silicone coated tires will need 2-4 weeks of drive time and a few cleaning to get silicone, waxes, solvents, etc out and off of side tire sidewalls. Beyond this important first step, simply wipe on, not rub, to a cool and clean surface. 

Q:   BLAK, SATN, GLOZ - Explained. 

A: They are as the name suggests. BLAK = rich black color restoration with a medium gloss, SATN = med level gloss that will enhance any color surface, GLOZ = high gloss that will enhance any color surface. Each are of the same polymer structure and blend. BLAK contains a high level of carbon black, a competitive UV absorber. BLAK is the choice for faded black surfaces and it's the best for tire dry rot prevention but those UV block values are similar only slightly less in SATN and GLOZ. BLAK can be used as a base coat followed with SATN of GLOZ. This layering will intensify the look, shine, and abilities. Each individual product can also be layered for a similar effect. 

Q:  Motorcycle and Golf Cart-Safe: BLAK, SATN, and GLOZ.

A: YES! Totally safe and dry-seal. These products will actually improve the tactile abilities of weathered rubber, plastic, and vinyl. Many even apply to tire face or tread for seasonal storage of tires.

Q:   BLAK, SATN, GLOZ - Removal. 

If you have an area of over overlap you can use a small amount of ammonia with water and microfiber towel. The ammonia will quickly break the polymer bond which will allow removal. 

If you want to renew the treatment on your tires, simply give the tires a hard wash with tire cleaner and/or 20% ammonia mixed into a general cleaner or water.  

Q:  The Renew-PRO ceramics?

A: They are the real-deal. We now infuse ALL our products with one of our two blends. Are hybrids blends consist of titanium and quartz in a water base. For this reason they are easy wipe-on ceramics yet with one year or better longevity.

Beware of 'cheap' products claiming to be ceramic. They are not. Most are a Polysiloxanes, i.e. a stronger version of Armor All® or 303 type products. 

It is best practice to apply any true ceramics to well prepared and detailed substrates.

Ceramics are final finish products unless otherwise stated. They are designed for long term protection and enhancement. Ceramic coatings should be used on a completely striped surface, as in direct bond to substrate or applied over/after a ceramic-prep products like out CART/RV or RP.05. Applying ceramics over a wax or typical polish will greatly lessen the longevity of that ceramic. 

 Q:  DASH or not to DASH?

DASH is designed just for interior applications. It will make a permanent UV block seal. Prep is the most important consideration with the wipe on of DASH. If the interior receives 'protectant' type treatments more once a year it best not to use DASH. The surface must be free of these silicones, oils, and solvents. Typical protectants all contain these elements and this will act as a barrier to the DASH inner bonding process. If residue is present when applying DASH you will see white looking ares where polymers bonded, imperfectly, atop the surface. 

 Q:  Prep & Removal of "Protectants" ?

Removal of protectants is possible.

Interior: This will require multiple cleanings and repeated wipes with window cleaner, isopropyl alcohol, or similar. BUT be careful with use of isopropyl alcohol or any stronger distillates. Always try a small test area. Distillates they can damage surfaces.

If the interior receives 'protectant' type treatments regularly complete removal may not be possible. 

Exterior: You can simply wash and give it a couple weeks. Protectants are designed to fail quickly.  

Q:  MSDS Sheets?

Just ask and we will send. 

 Q:  Why is applying typical 'protectants' a bad idea? 

Well, how to keep this brief.... so call protectants are mainly water, glycol (antifreeze) and sand (silica). To make this combo work requires emulsification. Silica is holds mid level UV reflective values and is harmless. The emulsifier(s) and the glycol are the bad bits!

Glycol is used to maintain hydration or keep the surface wet. That old tire or faded trim look great when it rains... right? That's what protectants do... Temporary hydration of the substrate. Glycol is also neurotoxin SO bad idea on interiors. The emulsifier(s) will eventually breakdown any surface especially when it remains active due to the hydrating effect of the glycol. 

For more details see our blog post: Protection, Protectants, and Tire Dry Rot